Bakuchiol vs Retinol — Which one is better for you?
Bakuchiol is a relatively newer ingredient on the scene. You’ll see it in a lot of products (serums, creams, oils); marketing clan touting its benefits and the inevitable comparison with retinol. So, let’s understand what the hype is all about.
What is Bakuchiol and how does it work?
Bakuchiol is a plant extract derived from the leaves and seed of the psoralea corylifolia plant (also known as Babchi). It targets the same anti-aging genes and proteins in human skin as retinol. Simply put, similar to retinol it signals the skin to slow down aging— meaning to start reducing fine lines and wrinkles. It also encourages our skin to make more collagen (a protein required to keep the skin firm and healthy).
But unlike retinol, Bakuchiol:
- Can be used both in the morning and at night
- Can be used daily since it is super gentle on the skin
- Is safe to use during pregnancy
- Is oil-based and hence has no pH. This means it has no conflicts with any skincare ingredients (layer it as you like)
What does research say about Bakuchiol?
1. A 2019 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology compared the effects of bakuchiol and retinol on aging skin. The results after 12 weeks of use showed:
- Both bakuchiol and retinol significantly decreased wrinkles and fine lines
- Both bakuchiol and retinol were effective in brightening and evening out skin tone
- Bakuchiol decreased wrinkles by an average of 19% and retinol decreased wrinkles by an average of 23%. This 4% difference is not ‘significant’ per scientist's conclusion. Which makes the results very clear, Bakuchiol is as effective a treatment for aging skin as retinol
- Retinol caused stinging, burning, itching, and scaling whereas bakuchiol had none of these side-effects
2. A 2020 study published in the journal of drugs in dermatology tested a 1% bakuchiol cream (this is double the dose of the 2019 study) on people with sensitive skin — the participants had rosacea, eczema/atopic dermatitis, and cosmetic intolerance syndrome. The results showed that not only was the 1% bakuchiol cream very well tolerated but it was also effective in helping reverse signs of aging.
3. Another study published in the Cosmetics and toiletries magazine concluded that bakuchiol can help reduce breakouts, acne, and associated dark spots. It reduces skin’s oiliness by turning down the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone to DHT, thus helping manage breakouts. Bakuchiol is also:
- anti-bacterial so helps keep acne in check
- anti-inflammatory so helps reduce the red acne marks
- an antioxidant as it keeps the skin’s sebum (natural oil) from getting oxidized (turning brown)
These studies illustrate that Bakuchiol is as effective as retinol for aging skin and acne and comes with no irritating side-effects unlike its counterpart.
Tips on buying the right Bakuchiol product
- Look for percentages between 0.5%-1%; anything lower or higher has no proven results
- Bakuchiol also increases the efficacy of retinol so look for products that combine both ingredients
My product picks:
BYBI beauty 1% bakuchiol + olive squalane oil booster
The Inkey List Bakuchiol alternative retinol moisturizer
Is Bakuchiol better than Retinol?
When looking to dine out we always pick the restaurant with the highest rating. A newly opened restaurant may have amazing food but doesn’t have enough five-star ratings to influence our opinion. Think of retinol as the highest rated restaurant — it has more research and proven results whereas Bakuchiol is an up-and-coming ingredient with limited research right now. It’s a promising ingredient that will continue to have more studies backing its benefits.
There are certain situations where bakuchiol is a better choice — if you have sensitive skin, or if you’re just starting to add anti-aging ingredients in your skincare routine.
But if your skin is past the first few signs of aging then go for retinol.
The bottom line
Bakuchiol is a newer ingredient that has comparable benefits to retinol, and that too without the irritating side-effects. The only shortcoming is there’s less research around bakuchiol which gives retinol an edge over it. But it’s well worth a try and I’m sure there’s going to be more research in the coming years.
